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mustangman

1932 Plymouth

While I am waiting for some additional parts from Bob to start the Life Like Stanley Steamer, I tentatively started building the Life Like 1/32 Scale 1932 Plymouth which is the same kit that Mark showed us in the finished projects section earlier.  So far I have the fenders glued to the chassis and the multipiece body pieces and the hood pieces glued together.  I had previously pre-assembled the engine and glued it in place in the chassis.  However, I'm running into some serious fit issues.

My thoughts to detail out the engine bay came to a screeching halt when I discovered that engine location makes it impossible to join the radiator, hood and body together as the engine is way too long to fit under the hood!

I double checked my assemblies and everything seems to be where it should be so I have no idea what is happening.  I had to remove all the front part of the engine, fan belts, radiator hoses, etc to get enough clearance to align the radiator with the hood.  Obviously I'm no longer detailing the engine, so now it will be a "curbside" model with the hood glued shut!

Did you have the same problem with yours Mark, or am I missing something?

I also noticed the the suspension height makes it look like the car has worn out springs, so I will raise the suspension just a little.

I plan a color scheme of black fenders. cream painted wood wheels and a dark blue body (maybe with a cream pinstripe if I sum up enough courage and a steady hand!).  The interior will be brown leather and the convertible top will be tan colored fabric.  I will use Alcad and BMF for the chrome.

I will take a couple of pictures this evening and post them later.....
mustangman

As promised, here are some pics of progress so far.

The first picture shows how much of the engine front accesories had to be removed to get the radiator to fit: Don't know why the plastic shows a sickly green... it's not really that color!



The rear suspension has been raised at the front mounting points (little white styrene extensions) and the front axle has been removed from the sping shackles:



It's all taped together to check for fit and the front axle will be re-installed on raised axle spacers.  I'll also move the front axle slightly forward in the opening, as the wheel is set too far back and hits the spare wheel depression in the fender:

MarkW

Problems? Gee mine wuz easy...

Never had any problems with fit at all! Should post some motor pics soon.
motor is a 4 cyl. and there is plenty room. Wonder what gives?
mustangman

Looking at the close up picture, I suppose I could have set the front of the engine back in line with the front support, but I have lined up the two halves of the bellhousing (which should be correct) instead.  Whatever the reason, it's too late now to change and I seldom, if ever, open the hoods on my finished models anyway!

Onwards and upwards........!
mustangman

I've raised the front suspension and moved the axle forward on the leaf springs.  With both the front and rear raised, the car now sits at a better height than it would have, if I had built it as per the kit.  

If you compare the front fenders on the model to the picture on the box, you will see the shape is quite different, and why the stock kit assembly wouldn't work correctly.  In fact there are quite a few discrepancies that can be noted by comparison... rear fender sweep, body height, etc.....


(this is just mocked up to check.......)

I hope to get the wheels and tires painted within the next couple of days.
MarkW

Research ???

Ah! But is the box art correct? Not as bad as their '34 Plymouth, which has incorrect hood sides & bumpers!
mustangman

Here are a couple of pictures of the actual car.  See what I mean?  Body proportions are all wrong.  It's kinda dis-heartening and the enthusiasm for the build stalls a little.  But I will persevere........





(Copyright pictures by Jim Benjamin c.2008 used for reference only.)
MarkW

Body styles


The body looks more like the convertible coupe. Except for the windshield.  There were 2 roadsters, a business roadster & a sport roadster. The lack of exposed top bows on the kit makes me think of it as a convertible coupe. Even though the box says roadster. But then the windshield frame needs to be made to look as if it were part of the body.
But the doors and body look closer to the convertible. What do you think?
mustangman

I think the model is a mix of both.

The convertible coupe has the same convertible roof as the model, but has a frame around the upper part of the door.  The pictured one doesn't have a fender mounted spare, but that may be an accessory.  And check the splash guards on the front of the chassis rails on both cars.

Difficult to say for sure but if you compare the body height over the rear fender on the model and then on both the actual cars, there is a considerable difference.  I think this is the main problem as it distorts the beautiful lines of the actual car and makes it look stodgy and bulky.

But.. what the hay.... even the Chinese don't make a copy of this car (at least I haven't seen one), so I guess we'll just have to make do!

Tony
mustangman

After studying the pictures again, it looks like the model has additional bodywork below the doors which the real cars don't have.  I'm considering removing this extra plastic, which would reduce the model body height by almost 1/8".

I'll have to check to see how this drastic surgery would affect the rear of the car and the hood/radiator, etc., but if it is possible, might just solve the body height issue.

I'll keep you posted.

I also just noticed that the convertible coupe and the model have exposed door hinges which the roadster does not have.  So maybe I should build this as the convertible coupe?  Also, it would seem more logical to me that the roadster would probably have wire wheels rather than wood ones.
MarkW

Optional

Hello; The wheels of wood were standard; wires were extra cost. I like the wood wheels for they are different than on most 1930's kits. You were correct in that the sidemount spare was extra cost.
Check the inside of the door for roll up window knobs. If they have them, it's a convertible coupe. Good luck. bounce
mustangman

Good thinking Mark!  The door panels do have the window cranks!  So convertible coupe it is.

Meanwhile I've lowered the body and it does look better.  Here's a couple of pics:

This shows how much I lowered it by.


I've quickly mocked it up so you can see the difference by comparing to the picture in the last post.


I will have to modify the windshield and create a side window and frame.
MarkW

Raiders of the Lost Projects

Whatever happened to this project??? Would be a nice followup to the Packard... laughing6
mustangman

It's all ready for paint, Mark.  Unfortunately the weather isn't.

Hopefully it'll get done in the spring.

Tony
mustangman

We had a couple of really great weather days and I got the painting done on a few models.... including the Plymouth..... finally!

Here's a teaser picture of the progress to date... including the brushed Alcad chromed grille, headlamps and bumpers.



Now I'm working on the wheels, but there's something wrong with the ratio of the tires to the rims.  They look like the wheel rims are 6" thick and the tires are rubber bands.  Very badly scaled and molded..... so I'll have to try some "slight of hand" in the way I paint them.  If you look at the previous pics you might see what I mean.

Tony
MarkW

Wow. Looks great. Like the chrome too- real nice.
If you want the tires to look larger, whitewalls will help. Lighter color things look bigger for some reason. Dark looks smaller. Ask any fat woman out there who wears black blouses so she look slimmer! compress
mustangman

This is definitely not one of my favourite Pyro/Life Like kits!  But it's finally done... which is the main thing, I guess......







talespin

Nice build, Tony. I have this kit, so your progress thread will be most useful when I attempt it. Mine is maroon plastic.

I looked at the kit wheels. These are the "artillery-style" with an engraved line on the tire for painting a white wall. That may be the way I will go. Very nice job on the wooden spokes. Are these the wheels you used on the '24 Buick?

Ron
1500gp

cheers  cheers  cheers
mustangman

talespin wrote:
Nice build, Tony. I have this kit, so your progress thread will be most useful when I attempt it. Mine is maroon plastic.

I looked at the kit wheels. These are the "artillery-style" with an engraved line on the tire for painting a white wall. That may be the way I will go. Very nice job on the wooden spokes. Are these the wheels you used on the '24 Buick?

Ron


I've only ever had one 32 Plymouth kit Ron, and I don't remember where the wheels for the Buick came from.  Probably an old HP junker kit.

I thought the same about the white sidewalls, but when I started painting the tires, I realised that there was almost no wheel rim left if I painted the sidewalls white.  So, to try to fool the eye(?), I painted the (sidewall) area semi gloss black and the outer tire edges flat black.  Then painted the wheel rim between the spokes dark blue.  This way it's difficult to see where the wheel rim ends and the tire begins.    

Tony
talespin

The thing I like about this kit, it's a Plymouth, not a Ford.
I believe Pyro also did a '32 Chevy in 1/32. You could have the low-price three for 32 side by side in scale.

Ron
mustangman

I have the Pyro '32 Chevy..... which I got as a glue bomb at a yard sale.  After I disassembled it and stripped the paint, it went back in the baggie.  It is BAD!  I've subsequently stripped it for some parts, but even those are pretty pathetic.  Again, like the Plymouth (but even worse), the proportions are all wrong and the detail is really bad.  I doubt I will waste my time with it when there are so many other good models to build.

Pyro/Life Like also did a '32 Chevy pickup.  I don't have it but it shows up on Ebay regularly and..... judging by the box cover picture, and my experience with the '32 Chevy car.... it won't be added to my collection soon.

I believe that some of the very early Pyro kits (early "table top" series) were re-pops from the original Palmer molds, and not very good.  

Pyro's later kits were much better.  The current re-pops from Lindberg are still based on the very old Palmer originals, except the "classic" series like the Duesenberg, which have far superior tooling.

But I could be wrong......!

Tony
talespin

The only Palmer/Premier kits I've seen have been a total disaster. I didn't know some Pyros were based on Palmer tooling.
I guess this is a case of buyer beware.

Ron
1500gp

Ok boys, many thanks ... now I have the explanation about some bad quality models of Pyro or Lindberg ...  cheers
MarkW

Nice job on the Plymouth. Not the worst model I've ever built. Not many 1930's Chryslers done in scale!

Good paint too.
mustangman

Thanks Mark.... couldn't have done it without inspiration from you!  Your suggestions and prototype information helped considerably.

Tony

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